'66 GT350H PT 2

 So Revell came through on this. I had contacted them about the missing head and I had two on the sprue tree within a week or so. Much, much faster than the previous shipping experience.

So while I waiting for the engine parts to dry from their fresh coats of paint, I started foiling the chrome trim on the body.  After a few hours of work and recharging the dead headset, I was ready to try and fix he bumpers.

I left them in Dot3 for 24hrs and cleaned them up. After a good soapy wash, sanded them a bit more and let them sit overnight. After redoing the primer, I followed that up with some Testors Semi Gloss black via the air brush. Which also left to some on the floor. 

After it was dried, I laid a few coats of the Ak Interactive Chrome. Even though it's over semi gloss black, I still can't get the semi shine I am looking for. In the end, I ended up thinning out Testors Metallic Silver and using a wide brush to try to avoid brush strokes, I layed a thin coat of it onto the bumpers. They're still not clean, but they will work. This isn't a show car after all.

I also primed and painted the smaller chrome parts in the same many and they turned out decent enough.

So, Multiple brake baths, missing parts, bad decals and messed up paint jobs, it seems to have turned out okay.

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'66 GT350H PT 1

Started this shortly after finishing the Panzer IV. However, early issues made it go back on the shelf until just recently. I've always liked the Shelby's and wouldn't mind owning a clone, as I'll never afford an original!

When I first started this, I got the body primed and painted in Createx Charcoal Metallic Gray. After letting it sit a couple of days for curing, I started with the decals. First thing I noticed was when I started applying the hood decals is that the decals were a lot thicker than normal. They didn't want to bend or conform to the bends in the hood. Even using MicroSol, they wouldn't soften enough and I believe the MicroSol was a bit too harsh for the Createx Acrylic. I started to notice spots where the the the paint came off and showed the primer.

I moved to the roof decals, same thing. The decals were a lot thicker than normal. When I slid them off the paper backing, they held stiff. Put them on anyway. Followed this by the trunk and bumpers. It was at this point that the decals were past my last nerve.

I tried peeling them off and figured I'd look into masking and painting them on. However, the decals now didn't want to come off. Started search the Tube, tried a few things, nada, no way, nuttin! So the kit went back into the box and sat on the shelf while I worked  on the Stug. Not to mention, the cat knocked the body off the table, knocking loose the door scoops. I was only able to locate one of them so I reached out to Revell for replacements.

Months later, getting back to this kit, I gave it a brake bath and stripped it down. Based on some other kit builds I saw online, I decided to give my hand at stripping the chrome and using the newly acquired AK Interactive Xtreme Metal Chrome. 

Stripped, washed and cleaned, I layed down the Mr. Surfacer primer. I proceeded to lay down a few light coats of the Createx Charcoal Metallic Gray. While that was set aside to dry, I proceeded to apply the new chrome to the now stripped and cleaned parts.

Something seemed off. I wasn't getting the shiny that I thought I should. I applied three light coats, but to my dismay, it looked like a flat silver. I set it aside, and laid down two more coats of gray to the body. Looking back at the flat silver wannabe chrome, I realized why. I put it over flat black primer instead of gloss primer. I may have a fix or two in my tool box.

After a few days of thinking about it, I broke out the chrome pen I have and put some into a lid. Thinned out with Testors thinner, I applied some wash coats to tall the parts. Now it was looking more like chrome but still with the underlying flat silver. Bigger problem was the bumpers. They will have to be restriped and redone. But the remaining parts were looking more realistic.

After a few days of letting the body sit to cure, I gave it a wet sane with 6k and 12k paper. This was followed up by five coats of Createx ULV Clear coat. Letting that sit for a few days to cure, I began the policing process. Again, starting with a wet sanding using the 6k and 12k paper, this was followed up with Meguiars Scratch X and Meguiar's spray and wipe polish.  Only thing left to do with the body is the chrome trim which will be foiled.

Started on the interior. Did some interwebz searching and most of it is all basic black on black. Though it's a classic, I wanted something a bit different and something that would contrast a bit with the body color.

I took Tamiya's flat black and sprayed over the Mr. Surfacer primer. The hands of gotten a bit worse as the year has gone on, but it didn't stop me from trying the trim in paint instead of foil.

Using Tamiya white for the seat trim, it wasn't working. Had issues with this white on the Bronco I did, I had to switch to the Vallejo white. A few coats and it seems okay. Could probably use another, but I'll leave it.

I used Vallejo's brown sand and light skin tone to make a light wood color for the steering wheel and wood grain around the gauges. Followed this up with a Vallejo red brown water wash on the steering wheel. Finished the chrome trim and used Tamiya's panel line access to fill in the gauges. I sealed it all with Vallejo's Satin Varnish.

I took the interior and set it into the body to see how well it looks. Not too bad. 

With the interior about 90% complete, I started on the engine. Started clipping pieces from the sprue to realize, there was only one head on there. Searched the box in case it got knocked off, nothing. Went back to the sprue tree, there are two numbers where the heads are supposed to be, but only one head. Looking closer at the tree, it doesn't look like the other head was ever molded onto the tree. 

I began scouring my parts boxes. I have extra Ford flat head heads. I have an entire Chevy large block complete motor but the heads are double the size of what I need.

Looking online, I reached out to others in the forums. I can pick up an entire motor for this kit off Ebay, but I'll be in the same boat. A full motor but only one head. So I filled out the form on Revells site. It'll take about a month or so to get here, so back in the box this goes.

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StuG IV Late

 Between this kit  (Dragon Kit 6043) and the previous Panzer IV, I built a horrendous AMT nova. It's a shelf spacer.

This was given to me by my friend Eric, along with the extra PE parts (Lion Roars LE35050 and LE35051). I think he's trying to test me and find my breaking point. I do need to buy a PE bending kit however.

The good thing, I think, is the StuG IV is built off the Panzer IV base.This became helpful when cutting one of the return wheels of the sprue and it disappeared into the modeling abyss. Thankfully I had another from the Panzer. 

After about 2 hours, watching some of the race at Long Beach replay, I stopped here. The shoulders started to burn and my eyes were twitching. I also needed to charge the battery in the headlamp.

I noticed that a lot of the PE parts will require the removal of a lot of plastic of the base. Not happening this time around. One, I don't have all the proper tools. Secondly, I don't want to. I am going to use as much as possible, but I figured I could add a little extra here and there to try and make the details stand out a bit.

Definitely a lot more PE than the Panzer, so it will be a learning curve. After looking at the track pieces, they are about identical to the Panzer tracks. So I just maybe ordering some workable links from Squadron.

After some time, working with and losing some of the small PE pieces, I ended up with this. I have been happy so far.

I didn't realize it at this time however, the drive sprocket is on backwards, on both sides. The wheel carrier was a pain to a point, trying to glue the bends without getting it stuck to my fingers. Eventually, I will learn better mechanics.

After a week or two of off and on work and waiting for my paint to arrive, I got the panels complete and the rails they sit on. I also added a bit of damage to the front by removing part of the fender. I also added some damage and bends to the side plates.

I was able to prime and lay the base coat. I wanted to try more weathering so I ordered the AK Interactive Worn Effects. Just had to wait for it to be ordered. I had watched a few videos however, when I started to spray it, it came out like water. I lowered and raised the PSI, moved further away and closer to the kit, but regardless, it just laid on the base coat like oil on water.

More than a little frustrated, I used the airbrush to push the liquid around to thin it out and get it lay evenly. I was hoping it would dry clear and it did. Still need more research for this, was it end result is a lot more than my first kit.

Being a late model StuG, and the base was of the Panzer IV, plus the fact I couldn't find a lot of information on this, I decided to go the same route with the primer, followed with the oxide red as I did the Panzer. Then the base color of yellow brown, with the Worn Effects fluid between the oxide and yellow, sealed with Testors clear lacquer.

Once the yellow had dried, I started with the green and brown colors. Tried following a few patterns I found online as well as what was in the Dragons instructions. I was not happy with the end result. Unlike the Panzer, I didn't hand paint the tools prior to adding the camo pattern. 

Deciding what to do, I kept rotating the the paint base, looking at different angles. First thing I started on was the weather and chipping. First time for everything. Having watched the previous videos and reading the AK instructions, I began using the stiff brush and water. After about 5 minutes, I was getting nowhere. 

Starting to get a little frustrated, I looked at what was on the work table. Oil Paints! I grabbed one of the oil tubes and prayed to the model gods to not fail me. I started lightly chipping and scratching at the went paint. Took some water with the brush, brushed off the mess. Did a little more here and there. It started to look a lot better. One thing I found out was, don't attempt to scratch the PE plates. The gold color came through.

I still had the red oxide oil wash from the Panzer, so I shook it up and set it aside. I grabbed the other oils and started a small pin wash. Once complete, I began with the full body oil wash.

I was getting frustrated as no matter how gentle I tried handling the kit, a few of the rail teeth popped off. A few of the anchor points on the back of the plates popped off. Gluing them back on, I started on a bit more detailing.

Overall I am very pleased with this one. I learned a few techniques. Learned I have very little patience when it comes to PE. I will do a bit more detailing with a pencil. I am going to have to order the Panzer tracks that I used on the Panzer from Reyfield. The tracks in this kit are the same as the other Dragon, and they're doing the same thing. Falling apart like glass candy after the glue has dried. It was also at this time, I realized the drive shafts were on backwards so I proceeded to remove them, place them correctly, and respray the sides.

I am trying to get a look of actual used and abused armor. A lot I've seen look "painted" but they do look amazing. I like the grime and oil type look. I am currently looking for top mounted machine gun.As my new kitten has decided to try his paws at model building.

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