StuG IV Late

 Between this kit  (Dragon Kit 6043) and the previous Panzer IV, I built a horrendous AMT nova. It's a shelf spacer.

This was given to me by my friend Eric, along with the extra PE parts (Lion Roars LE35050 and LE35051). I think he's trying to test me and find my breaking point. I do need to buy a PE bending kit however.

The good thing, I think, is the StuG IV is built off the Panzer IV base.This became helpful when cutting one of the return wheels of the sprue and it disappeared into the modeling abyss. Thankfully I had another from the Panzer. 

After about 2 hours, watching some of the race at Long Beach replay, I stopped here. The shoulders started to burn and my eyes were twitching. I also needed to charge the battery in the headlamp.

I noticed that a lot of the PE parts will require the removal of a lot of plastic of the base. Not happening this time around. One, I don't have all the proper tools. Secondly, I don't want to. I am going to use as much as possible, but I figured I could add a little extra here and there to try and make the details stand out a bit.

Definitely a lot more PE than the Panzer, so it will be a learning curve. After looking at the track pieces, they are about identical to the Panzer tracks. So I just maybe ordering some workable links from Squadron.

After some time, working with and losing some of the small PE pieces, I ended up with this. I have been happy so far.

I didn't realize it at this time however, the drive sprocket is on backwards, on both sides. The wheel carrier was a pain to a point, trying to glue the bends without getting it stuck to my fingers. Eventually, I will learn better mechanics.

After a week or two of off and on work and waiting for my paint to arrive, I got the panels complete and the rails they sit on. I also added a bit of damage to the front by removing part of the fender. I also added some damage and bends to the side plates.

I was able to prime and lay the base coat. I wanted to try more weathering so I ordered the AK Interactive Worn Effects. Just had to wait for it to be ordered. I had watched a few videos however, when I started to spray it, it came out like water. I lowered and raised the PSI, moved further away and closer to the kit, but regardless, it just laid on the base coat like oil on water.

More than a little frustrated, I used the airbrush to push the liquid around to thin it out and get it lay evenly. I was hoping it would dry clear and it did. Still need more research for this, was it end result is a lot more than my first kit.

Being a late model StuG, and the base was of the Panzer IV, plus the fact I couldn't find a lot of information on this, I decided to go the same route with the primer, followed with the oxide red as I did the Panzer. Then the base color of yellow brown, with the Worn Effects fluid between the oxide and yellow, sealed with Testors clear lacquer.

Once the yellow had dried, I started with the green and brown colors. Tried following a few patterns I found online as well as what was in the Dragons instructions. I was not happy with the end result. Unlike the Panzer, I didn't hand paint the tools prior to adding the camo pattern. 

Deciding what to do, I kept rotating the the paint base, looking at different angles. First thing I started on was the weather and chipping. First time for everything. Having watched the previous videos and reading the AK instructions, I began using the stiff brush and water. After about 5 minutes, I was getting nowhere. 

Starting to get a little frustrated, I looked at what was on the work table. Oil Paints! I grabbed one of the oil tubes and prayed to the model gods to not fail me. I started lightly chipping and scratching at the went paint. Took some water with the brush, brushed off the mess. Did a little more here and there. It started to look a lot better. One thing I found out was, don't attempt to scratch the PE plates. The gold color came through.

I still had the red oxide oil wash from the Panzer, so I shook it up and set it aside. I grabbed the other oils and started a small pin wash. Once complete, I began with the full body oil wash.

I was getting frustrated as no matter how gentle I tried handling the kit, a few of the rail teeth popped off. A few of the anchor points on the back of the plates popped off. Gluing them back on, I started on a bit more detailing.

Overall I am very pleased with this one. I learned a few techniques. Learned I have very little patience when it comes to PE. I will do a bit more detailing with a pencil. I am going to have to order the Panzer tracks that I used on the Panzer from Reyfield. The tracks in this kit are the same as the other Dragon, and they're doing the same thing. Falling apart like glass candy after the glue has dried. It was also at this time, I realized the drive shafts were on backwards so I proceeded to remove them, place them correctly, and respray the sides.

I am trying to get a look of actual used and abused armor. A lot I've seen look "painted" but they do look amazing. I like the grime and oil type look. I am currently looking for top mounted machine gun.As my new kitten has decided to try his paws at model building.

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AMT '70 Nova Pro Stock - Shelf Spacer

This has been the worst kit I've had the pleasure to deal with. I didn't realize that it was an old release from the early 80's. The mold lines were bad. The fenders were badly warped.The glass wasn't fully developed, neither were the headlights. Overall I'll give this one a -5 out of 10.

This one took a little bit more time to set up. I actually bought this as a show car for the model show in Chattanooga, however, once I opened it, I knew it wasn't going to happen. 

Using some tape, I had to tape the hood to the fenders in order to help position them to the body. Then they were partially glued into place, so I could see what all had to be done. 

Using some putty, I filled in the panel lines between the fender and doors and along the top of the fenders. After letting it harden for a few days, I began sanding to make it a bit more presentable and smooth. I also rescribed the body lines to bring them back. Though I originally was going to make a drag car, I had some left over Testors Extreme lacquer in Racing Blue. So I decided that I would make the Saturday night ice cream drive build with a stance from hell.

The paint actually cured for about two weeks. Only due to real world issues. But like always, with the clear coat screwed things up. Seems the issue only happens with the Testors Extreme Wet Look clear. It bubbled the paint over the driver side fender well and above the driver side rain catch. I really need to look into decanting this. I really like the looks when it works right.

Don't have enough left, I was miserable and said oh well. I wasn't going to stript it. After all was said and done, I "kinda" got the nova I want to take to the ice cream shop on Saturday night.

Finished up the chrome work with the last of my BMF. Covered the rims in Tamiya accent liner to dull them a bit.

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The Darkside Pt 5: Mein Anführer, der Panzerwagen ist fertig

 At least it is to me. Finally calling the tank build done.  The Panzer IV Ausf. J Late, 1944 Stoumont. This has been a challenge as well as a rewarding build as I stepped outside of what I knew. I learned a few new techniques along the way, picked up a lot of supplies I didn't think i'd have. Even got into 1/35 scale figure painting. Oh the joys!

After spending some time assembling the track links that came with the kit, fighting to get them on the tank and letting them set there to let the glue really set in a few days, it was time to paint them. Keeping simple, it was black primer base with a wash coat of the red oxide I made up. Only one problem. When I went to put the track back onto the tank, the links started falling apart. Needless to say, I was at my last with it. Eric found me a set of Rye Field workable link tracks on the Squadron site, so I ordered those.

Tracks on the tank, q tips to help with sag while glue dries.

LInks just started crumbling like wet sand when I went to put them back on.

So while I wait for more supplies to arrive, and have already ran to Michaels, HL and Joanns to find paint, I mixed up the oil paints to make a wash and started weathering the tank. I know there is premade solutions out there for different things. Oil and gas spills, rust, etc. But, I might as well as learn this way. I did however, buy some dust affect and track wash from AK Interactive.

After watching multitude of videos and talking with Eric, I started the wash on things like the bolts and around hatches. Then I moved to other areas where the tank wouldn't be so clean. In the end, I think I ended up washing the entire tank with the wash, building up areas more than others, then going back with a clean brush and cleaning some up.

Tanks are dirty. Unless they just rolled off the shop line, even then, they're gonna have grease marks on them. I wanted this to look as if it's been in use for quite some time. Personally, I believe I pulled it off. 

It's been about a few weeks from the time the wash was done and the track arrived. I spent 4 hrs putting together and painting the tracks this past weekend. This has also been plenty of time for the oils to dry and fade out a bit.

OMG these were a life saver. 

99 links on the wall, 99 links...

During this time, I started a few 1/35 scale figures. Technically, they're from the Normandy campaign, but Eric was nice enough to give them to me and I wanted to something to go with this tank. Granted, I used to paint pewter figures back in the day, but somehow, this is a lot different.  I didn't spend a lot of time sanding things down. I just cut, glued and painted.

The faces on these weren't meant for a lot of detail. But I did try the best I could. Even watched a handful of videos of different techniques. I know own a few dozen bottles of Vallejo acrylic paints. I also realized, I was going to need some micro brushes, so I ordered those.

Still need to go back and fix the eyes and flush out some shading on the faces. That will come when the brushes get here.

Sooooo, after 3 months and roughly 72 hours into building this tank. Pitfalls due to poor instructions, materials i've never used before, techniques that I don't use on any of my autos, I am proud to say my tank is done. 

I went back over a few spots with the oil wash to darken them up a bit. I tried chipping a few places, didn't like the results so I stopped. Brushed on some red oxide in a few edge places where the camo paint would have rubbed off. I also took a #2 penciled and gently highlighted some areas based on the current lighting where paint and primer would have rubbed off, exposing the steel.

After getting the new Rye Field tracks on and fixing the figures what I could, I took it out for some photos. 

"Ya know Kommandant..."

Fixed the shading a bit and was able to add eyes.

Again, I think this turned out well for my first go 'round. I have a Stugg to build as well as a Panther that I will be attempting a full diorama with. 

A big thanks though to Eric for pushing me into not leaving my first model show in Jan without buying anything and his friend Tim who is a walking knowledge bank. 

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